Buongiorno, Roma

Neither Kathryn nor I had ever visited Rome. We had a longing to do so, and the sabbatical provided an opportunity and a reason to experience for ourselves a city that has played such pivotal role in the history of the world, and of the Christian faith.


We planned five nights - four full days - in the Eternal City and flew from Manchester on Thursday 14 June. My former curate, Richard Carew, now the Archbishop of York's Domestic Chaplain, spent some time in Rome during his theological training and had sent us some useful notes for visitors. We also found the information from the Anglican Centre  very useful in assembling a programme for our visit, which we hoped would have something of the character of a pilgrimage.


One of Richard's tips had been to try and sit on the right hand side of the aircraft when flying into Ciampino Airport, in order to see some spectacular views of the city on the descent. He was right. Our first, thrilling, glimpse of St Peter's and the Colosseum was from the air, in the evening light. We were soon immersed in the atmosphere: a temperature approaching 30 degrees, a hair-raising taxi ride to our hotel with an an excited commentary on the car radio on Italy's latest match in Euro 2012, and sights on the route that we had waited a lifetime to see.


Hotel Columbia, near Termini (the rail and bus transport hub) welcomed us warmly and we were able to enjoy our first evening meal at a nearby restaurant and still get an early night ready for the excitement in store the next day.

The Pantheon - Interior of the dome

We had planned for Friday a an overview of the city on an open-top bus tour, with a break in the middle of the day around the Piazza Navona. The plan worked well, and we were able to get our bearings in the city and catch a glimpse of the most significant sites that we would be visiting over the next few days. We got off the bus to walk to the Pantheon and felt immediately in touch with the city's history. Built by the Emperor Hadrian as a Temple of 'all the gods', it became a Christian church in the Middle Ages. The artist Raphael is buried there. So it brings together in one place the history of Empire, Church and culture.

Piazza Navona

The midday heat in the Piazza Navona was intense, and so the crowds of tourists gravitated towards its three flamboyant fountains. It is a lively, beating heart to the city, vast and elegant, a place to watch people, but not from the tables of the expensive cafés surrounding it. We headed down a side street for a sandwich and then decided to head indoors out of the heat, to the Palazzo Altemps, one of the branches of the National Museum which houses an outstanding collection of classical sculpture. 

Courtyard of the Palazzo Altemps

After an hour and a half there, the churches around and near the Piazza had begun to re-open after the midday break and we were able to visit San Luigi dei Francesi, Sant'Agnese in Agone (dedicated to St Agnes, said to have been martyred here), and the charming courtyard of Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza. Heading back to the bus route, our final church visit was to Sant'Andrea della Valle. It is staggering to find so many ornate and beautiful church buildings all over the city. There seemed to be something to see in every street and around every corner, and plenty to talk about over pizza, coffee and limencello in the evening.


...I desire, as I have for many years, to come to you....

Romans  15:23

Days 2-4 to follow! More photos here